Central America – Day 7

We go hiking in the rain forest and have a picnic lunch with the monkeys at Caletas Beach

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We arrived in Corcovado National Park today for a hike through the rain forest. We chose to take the “strenuous” hike in the hopes of seeing more stuff. It turned out to be mostly a slog through the mud but still mildly interesting. Not so good for photographs though. It was too dark and I had my 300 mm lens on in case we saw monkeys and it was too close for most things. We saw leaf cutter ants which were amazing to watch and came across a couple of major ant colonies which were huge and teeming with ants. We also saw trees with what looked like multiple tripods for trunks. There’s no stability in the soil so they put out all these arms to hold themselves up. Others create these massive buttresses (like we saw yesterday) that spread all over the jungle floor.

We were shown a kerosene tree, whose sap smells like kerosene and actually will catch fire if lit. The natives use the oil for ceremonies (it has to be handled just right or it quickly oxidizes into powder). There is a bird that can drink the sap and the natives used to put them on sticks and light them for torches.

The thing I remember most is these tremendous vines, probably six inches or more in diameter that meander all over the forest and can go incredibly high into the trees.

It was very hot and muggy and muddy as I said. And slippery. Marion’s feet slipped out from under her (not serious, just a big mud stain on her behind) and I almost did a couple of times. I saw a giant blue butterfly probably six inches across. I tried to get a picture but didn’t quite manage it. Apart from that, the ants, a couple of birds and a squirrel we didn’t see any wildlife. And no monkeys although we did hear them.

We got back to the beach area and met up with Audrey and Hugh who had taken a different hike. We went back to the boat to clean up a bit and get our swimsuits on, then came back over. I took a swim which was very refreshing. Although dodging the zodiacs as they shuttled people to and from the boat convinced me to get out.

Just as I was drying off though, Marion told me there were monkeys off to the side. And boy were there. White faced Capuchin monkeys all over the palm trees, eating some kind of berry that grew in them (and eyeing the lunch they were setting up for us). They came down to only a few feet off the ground and I was able to get maybe 5 feet from them. I got some great shots.

The monkeys were around pretty much the rest of the day. And it took some effort from the crew to keep them from stealing our lunch. After lunch the four of us took a walk down the path Audrey and Hugh had taken on their hike to a couple of empty beaches in little coves. There was a shrimping boat following us along the coast. We found a rope swing, with the rope tied way up at the top of a tall palm. I took a couple of swings on it. It was fun. It didn’t reach the water though so no jumping in from it.

We saw a huge collection of leaf cutter ants. Much bigger than what we saw in the forest. The parade was at least 50 yards long and possibly longer since I couldn’t see how far it went, and 10-12 ants wide. Freaky. Hugh got down low to photograph them and the “warrior” ants came over to hustle him out of the way.

We reached a little river and turned around. We ran into a few locals along the way. The path goes to the nearest village which is an hour and a half walk away.

We got back and all decided to take a swim. It was even more refreshing than the first time after the walk. But we started to get worried about how much time we’d spent in the sun so we decided to pack it in. But not before making a few purchases from the locals (ankle bracelets and a T-shirt).

Back on the boat, we finally got a semi decent sunset. Or at least, a sunset where we could see the sun. It had been cloudy. I learned a few more tidbits from Hugh about exposure times and histograms which was helpful.

Another talk from the photographer this evening, this one on filters, which was mildly useful, although Photoshop has pretty much obsoleted their use. The idea that a filter removes the other colors was something I hadn’t really thought about. A red filter makes things red by removing green and blue light, not by adding red to the picture. He also showed a few photographs from his portfolio which was kind of interesting. I don’t think I’ll be purchasing any of his work though. I like mine (and Hughs’) a lot better.

Tomorrow we do the canopy tour on the suspended bridges, then the “grand finale” through the park where they are practically guaranteeing monkeys and sloths. It all sounds a bit dodgy how we’re supposed to get to all these places but I’m sure it will work out. I am simultaneously ready to be finished and not ready. I’ve really enjoyed this and definitely not ready to go back to work, but it’s starting to get a bit wearing having everything damp and cramped. I wouldn’t mind a nice roomy hotel room and some dry/clean clothes.

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