Southeast Asia – Day 19: Ha Long Bay / Hanoi


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We woke up (as usual) around 4:30 or 5:00 and decided to go up to the sun deck to see the sunrise.   Unfortunately, it was rising behind a fairly big kast but it still wasn’t bad.  And ultimately it lit up the area behind us a bit.  Once again I was surprised that no one else was interested.   Nancy (from our group) and us were the only ones.  One other woman came up briefly, took a picture and went down below, and that was about it.  But that was fine by me.  I prefer to not have the company.  But I was still surprised.  Maybe I like sunrises and sunsets more than most.

We went off in the tenders to see ‘the cave’.  This got hyped up a fair bit in the brochure and everyone else from all the other boats were there too.  Although the guide said it could be 10 times more crowded later in the day.  I don’t see how that would be possible.  There’s not enough land mass for them all but I’m sure he’s right.

The cave is about halfway up a kast so it’s a climb up uneven stone stairs to get there.  They’re narrow, really only big enough for one direction (for fat Westerners, probably fine for Vietnamese).  So it was a bit of a traffic jam.  The cave was kind of cool.  Marion didn’t think so but I like caves.   It was a couple of rooms with a few stalactites and stalagmites, mobbed with people.  The view out the back wasn’t bad though.  Certainly an interesting place to stop but not really a ‘major attraction’ by any means.  But they needed something to do with us in the morning.

Then back to the boat where it’s time to pack and check out.  We had a big brunch buffet (the Vietnamese put on a good buffet for sure) while we slowly made our way back to shore.  It’s such a pretty spot.  I could sit and watch it go by for hours.

The drive back was the same 3-hour trek through the same fairly uninteresting countryside.  But this time with Anna lying down on the front seat, presumably trying her best not to throw up.  She managed it well.  (I think it’s interesting in a karmic sort of way, that the two people who got sick on the trip, Anna and Mickey, were the two who I would consider had the worst attitudes or at least the most complaints).

We stopped at a duplicate of the souvenir stop on the way over that was on the other side of the highway.  Same stuff, different building.   And again, we were followed around the store by the helpful staff.  But, we found some ice cream, so it wasn’t a total waste.   And of course the bathroom.

We had to take Anna back to the hotel and then wait while she and Joyce called about their plane reservations.  I don’t understand the mentality of just letting someone make some arrangements and trusting that you’ll get what you want.  I was on those guys like white on rice (as they say) to make sure we had the flights we wanted and the seats we wanted.  But I guess when you’re used to having people do for you..  I really would not want to be the service agent who got that call.

So off to lunch.  The restaurant had a French design and was pretty cool looking.  The meal was a combination of ‘street food’ (but not cooked in the street).  There was *lots* of food.  Just when we thought it was over (and coffee had been served), the main course arrived (chicken soup — Pho) and it was too good not to eat more.  Sadly, dessert (mungo bean and various odd things in coconut milk) was not great.   Where’s my seasonal fruit?

From there it was off to the Women’s Museum.  Unfortunately, it’s now 4:30 and the museum closes at 5.  But we’re not paying so let’s see what we can.   It turns out it’s a great museum.   Not too much stuff, nicely laid out, and the English translation sounded like English.  There were 4 floors – fashion, women in the War (not what it was called but basically that), family life, and marriage and birth.  We had to give short shrift to the last two but it was nice.   The Vietnamese clearly have a love and respect for women and they are an important part of the culture.  And definitely not second class citizens like in some countries I could name.

When we came out, we watched our bus driver make a turn from the other side of the street in front of an onslaught of cars and scooters to pull into the driveway to pick us up.  If what wasn’t wild enough, he then proceeded to back into the same traffic, facing the oncoming lane, then crossed over into our lane.  Meanwhile, scooters and cars are weaving around us.  It was astounding.  Just a normal day in traffic in Hanoi.

We had the guide point out a bakery on the way back so we’d be set for that tomorrow morning.   As it turned out, we couldn’t wait and did an evening run.  But since there wasn’t much selection, we stopped by in the morning too.   We (well I) took a very chilly swim but there was a lovely view.  The pool is on the roof of the hotel and it’s 15 stories tall.  So you got a 360 view of downtown Hanoi.  Marion put her feet in but decided against a full dunking.  She was the smart one.  Brrrr.

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