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We were up at 4am to head to Angkor Wat for the sunrise. This is the grand finale of the temple tours. And since we’d been waking up around 4 or 5 every day so far it really wasn’t much of a problem. Our guide found us a beautiful spot where we could watch, sitting on a wall, looking across the moat towards the temple. It turned out to be a great sunrise (it could have been nothing but the gods smiled on us). The sky and clouds turned various shades of blue, purple and orange and reflected in the moat with the temple and trees in silhouettes between them.
Once the sun was up we headed across the moat on a temporary plastic floating bridge that just seemed wrong somehow, but the actual bridge was getting work done on it. The temple is good sized but the grounds and surrounding area and outer wall are much larger. Lots of people used to live around there. We wandered the grounds in the morning light which was very pretty. Then into the temple proper for a tour.
The temple has 3 levels and is quite impressive but I liked the smaller temples better. Bros said he’s always surprised when he asks people what their favorite temple was and how few say Angkor Wat. It may be also because it’s the last one and people get “templed-out”. I know we did. Which is not to say it’s not amazing. It is.
There’s a bas relief mural that stretches around all 4 sides and is 7 or 8 feet tall. It’s 1 point something kilometers long in total. It’s huge and very impressive. The important people are shown on elephants. That’s the first sign of importance. How important = the number of parasols shown around you. The king has 15. But the general has 16. Apparently the Khmer military wielded some power.
The stairs up to level 3 are a 17 percent grade. It’s practically a ladder. But we didn’t come all this way not to go up there. It’s a nice view from there. You need to be extra careful on the way down. We were glad it wasn’t raining.
It’s hard to get a good shot of the temple that gives you a sense of the size and grandeur. Video seemed to work better. I did get a shot of one of the orange-robed monks that I always wanted, after having seen one I really liked in National Geographic. The orange robes against the grey/black temple background is a nice contrast. It wasn’t nearly as good as the National Geographic one, but close enough.
It clouded over and threatened rain by the time we climbed down from level 3. But it didn’t actually rain. The look of the place was totally different when the morning light wasn’t shining on it. It’s not nearly as pretty.
Then it was back to the hotel for breakfast. My shirt is soaked through again but not as bad as mountain hike day. We got packed and ready by 10:30 so we decided to head into town for food supplies since we’re not sure what the boat situation will be. Another tuk-tuk ride, this time to the French bakery. They had some good-looking stuff (and a few whimsical designs like the bagel dogs that they made into faces). We got some goodies, most of which we didn’t end up eating, but it was still worth it. Then a walk around to find a market. Once again we are inundated with requests for tuk-tuk hires. It’s really getting old.
We found a mini-mart and laid in some chips, crackers and nuts. These saved our lives, especially Marion’s, later on. Next door was another market and we found a few more things. It’s always interesting to see what food they have in other countries and how it’s packaged. We were surprised to find Mission tortilla chips. We didn’t think they were that big a company.
We had a quick walk around town dodging tuk-tuk drivers. We had some thought to maybe walking back to the hotel but as we got to the river area we decided (well, I decided) it’s too damn hot to walk around so next tuk-tuk driver wins. That took about 3 seconds. He *really* wants to do more than take us to the hotel. City tour? Did that. Temples? Did that. Shopping? Not interested. You go tomorrow? We’re leaving on our tour today. Need a ride? Nope going by bus. He finally gave up and resigned himself to the $3 fare back to the hotel.
Everybody got to the lobby on time and we left exactly at 1 as planned. (Our group was very punctual the whole trip. That was nice.) We drove back into town along the river but then continued along the river some more but much farther past town. As we went along, the homes got bigger and better. I still don’t want to live there but it was a definite improvement.
We stopped at a lotus farm. It was out on the water with wooden planking leading out to it and a series of huts where I guess people lived. It was hot as hell getting off the air-conditioned bus. But interesting to see. Bros showed us where the lotus seeds are on the plant and we all tried eating them. Some people loved them. I didn’t mind them but didn’t think they had a lot of flavor. The leaves are waterproof (and have puddles of water in them) making them useful by the Cambodians for a variety of purposes (holding water, wrapping food, etc.). And if you break the stem, there’s a silky thread you can make cloth out of (slowly and painstakingly so it’s expensive). So there are lots of uses for it. The place had dried snakes for sale as well. It was less clear what they were used for. We didn’t ask.
We made it to the harbor, dodged a group of Chinese on tour, and made it out to the boat that will take us to the barge. It’s a big wooden thing with rows of seats. Someone (didn’t see who, but I have a guess) said “are we sleeping on this”? Really? A, there was a picture of the boat in the day by day handout we got, it didn’t look like this, and B, and more importantly, it’s about 20 feet long with a row of seats. C’mon people. Think a bit.
We headed out along the canal, which is seasonal. In the dry season you can’t really go out there. There are plants and trees living in the water that also live without the water when it’s not there.
We motored down the canal for a bit and stopped at a floating village. There were hundreds of homes that are boats where people live. There was a floating bar, floating stores, etc. We saw the grocery boat going around too. We stopped at a crocodile and fish farm. They raise crocs for food and leather. They also had a catfish bin. You couldn’t see anything but then Bros threw some food in and they swarmed it like piranhas. There were lots of other boats coming and going. And lots of Chinese tourists. There were 3 or 4 kids using cut in half plastic oil drums as boats that were floating nearby. They seemed to be spending a lot of time bailing but they looked like they were having a good time.
Back in our transport, and we’re passing floating homes and such and I see a boat I think is maybe abandoned. It looks old and is just moored off to the side. But no, it’s our barge! It’s kind of a cool old wooden thing and looks a lot better upon closer inspection. We come on board and get our orientation and room assignment. We are on the higher deck (go figure, we’re never in the better spot) in #6. I know the rooms will be small. I’ve seen the pictures. But it’s still a jolt when we first went in. Things are going to be cramped for a while. I couldn’t deal with it initially so I had to lie down. Marion, the master packer, figured out where everything should go and once we were there for a bit, it was fine. Cramped for sure but fine. So long as I can keep from impaling my head on the frame around the A/C, which is just above the bed, every time I lean back on the pillow. (Came close a few times but managed to not do it. It would have been the type of injury where you eat soup and draw in coloring books the rest of your life.)
After a rest, there’s further orientation and an opportunity to meet the crew. There are 14 crew to our 16 people — 2 captains, 3 housekeeper/waitresses, 2 engineers/maintenance, a chef and 2 helper chefs, the guy who docks the boat and helps you on/off, the bartender, the junior bartender-ish guy they call the elevator because his job is to bring the food and dishes up and down the stairs from the kitchen, and the boat manager. The introductions are being done during sunset and the light is fantastic but it’s behind me and it would be rude to turn around to take pictures. Oh well. It turned out there was ample opportunity later on in the trip.
A set of thunder clouds off in the distance was putting on a light show. There were pretty much constant lightning flashes, some very brilliant. I got a bit on video. I stood and watched for a while after the talk. It was like a special effects show.
The beds are VERY firm. We’ll see how we do on them. After 4 or 5 days of getting up at 4 am, I’m hoping for a later sleep in. And one last note. There is only one key to the room. So we have to be constantly aware of who is going to be responsible for it at any given time. So of course, any time I picked it up I said “I am the key master!” trying to sound like Zul from Ghostbusters. Or, alternatively, if I thought Marion had the key I’d say “Are you the key master?” in my best Rick Moranis voice. I crack myself up.
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